Tropika [Tustin]

Whether it was our Muslim guesthouse, Cantonese taxi driver, Indian saris, or Thai fruit stands, it didn't take us long to realize that Malaysia was a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. Penang had one of the most vibrant street food scenes we had come across on our travels through Malaysia and I can still remember the baos, rotis, and noodles being steamed, fried, and tossed all along multi-ethnic Gurney Drive.

And although I miss the times when food could be explored at its source, I found Tropika in Tustin to be a close substitute for a Southeast Asia vacation. I was impressed with both the interior and exterior decor, which reminded me of a tropical bungalow you'd duck in to escape the heat. The natural materials and dark wood grains that covered the walls, chairs, and shutters cast a soft light across the room while giving it textural contrast. The ambiance wasn't a far cry from some of the high-end Malaysian restaurants we dined in on our trip.

We started with the Roti Prata ($3) and Chicken Satay ($7). I had sworn off roti after ingesting loads of the greasy stuff on the streets of Malaysia, but Tropika's Singaporean version was paper-thin and crispy on the outside, doughy on the inside and with a touch of sweetness that soothed your tongue after dipping in the thin curry sauce. The satay wasn't peanut-based like its Thai version and was instead a play on sweet and sour.

The menu failed to mention brown iceberg lettuce as an ingredient in the Mango Salad ($6.95), which was our least favorite dish of the night. The salad had a good crunch to it thanks to the raw mangoes and bell peppers, but was doused with a sticky sweet and sour sauce that was less than appealing.

Although I wasn't thrilled at the prospect of fried tofu topped with seafood and veggies, the Penang Tofu ($12) was the star of the night. The tofu was fried to a golden crisp on the outside, but a single bite was all it took to reveal the custard-like softness of soybean on the inside. The thick egg sauce that coated the dish with a gaudy sheen actually had practical use in imparting even the blandest vegetable with a robust savoriness.

Penang Tofu - one of my favorite tofu dishes yet.

The Seafood Claypot ($14.95) paled next to the Penang Tofu ($12) and I'm sure the striking resemblance only added to the comparison. The seafood and veggies were combined with a light broth that was neither good nor bad, while the claypot seemed purely ornamental.

Our waiter seemed tongue-tied when asked for descriptions and recommendations ("everything is good"), though he did express skepticism at our order of two appetizers, one salad, and two entrees for three people (we weren't going to fall for that again). No thanks to him, I'll be coming back to get a better feel for the menu and other Malaysian treats such as Nasi Goreng, Hainan Chicken, and Asam Laksa. Portions were generous and prices were reasonable with entree averaging $13, though some seafood dishes were as much as $20.

Tropika
17460 E 17th St
Tustin, CA 92780
(714) 505-9908

Bistro Beaux [Torrance]

We came here with my SO's parents, so my foremost criteria in restaurant choice was one that could accommodate both conservative and bolder tastes. I figured that Bistro Beaux' selection of familiar pastas, risottos, and Italian items would make the fusion restaurant appear more approachable for the timid. Our bill for five came out to be a little over $100 [we had leftovers].

The Baked Eryngil Mushroom with Sea Urchin came with King Oyster mushrooms, which were deeply fragrant and perfumed every bite with notes of vanilla bean and butter. While our waitress gave a less-than-flattering description of the gratin as "cubes of bread in a Gorgonzola sauce," our mouths watered at the delicate flavor, smooth creaminess, and crunchy baguette slices. We found the Seared Albacore Sashimi under-seasoned, though it was served with some good vinegared onions.

We ended up ordering three pastas, which allowed us to assess the kitchen's range. There were three different sauce bases, flavors, and proteins across our creamy-sweet Crab Mayonnaise, traditional meat sauce (not pictured), and spicy Mediterranean spaghetti dishes.

Each person at the table had their own favorite with mine being the Spicy Scallop Spaghetti from the special menu. The very light olive oil sauce got most of its flavor from generous slices of garlic [the precise knife work on the garlic was very impressive] and dried pepper pods. Across the board, the spaghetti noodles could have been thinner. We also tried the Salmon Cheese Risotto, which took 20 minutes to prepare and was our least favorite dish.

For dessert we had the forgettable Tiramisu (available Fridays only) and the Catarana, which can best be described as a frozen custard with the velvety texture of cheesecake and creme brulee top. It was unique and I can't say I've ever had anything quite like it.

Despite its C-grade from the Los Angeles Department of Public Health, Bistro Beaux is a restaurant we look forward to coming back to. The menu is large, the choices are diverse, and the full bar keeps the restaurant open till 1am.

Disclaimer: There is nothing bistro-like about Bistro Beaux, which resembles an industrial warehouse, complete with security grates, sheet metal, and chain-link fences.

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Food update July 29, 2007

Ume is an acquired taste, but if you're unaccustomed like we were were, your mouth will pucker at its sourness and then cringe at the salt. The daikon itself is similar to jicama, but while the Ume Daikon received rave reviews on Yelp, its "uniqueness" was far beyond the comprehension of my palate. The Chili Bamboo Shoots were an excellent okazu (side dish) from the special menu.

I stand by my claim that anything with mushrooms on the menu is excellent at Bistro Beaux with the Scrambled Eggs and Mushroom being no exception. As humble as it may be, the eggs were incredibly moist with the soft curds intermingling perfectly with the chewy button and king trumpet mushrooms. The scents released into ours mouths were mesmerizing.

Our spaghettis were less successful this time with uneven execution across the three varieties. Some of the dishes were too oily, others too buttery, and the pasta not cooked al dente. The Seafood Spaghetti with tomato sauce was the only winner, piled high with sweet shrimp, calamari, and clams. The Carbonara was tossed with fatty bacon pieces and the Mentaiko (pollack roe) Spaghetti with Mushrooms tasted stale.

Dinner was a steal with three small dishes and three spaghetti plates coming only to $8.60 for each of our five table members.

Bistro Beaux
21605 S. Western Ave, Ste. A
Torrance, CA 90501
(310) 320-5820

Try: anything with the mushrooms in it, Crab Mayo Spaghetti, Catarana, Bolognese, Spicy Scallop Spaghetti
Skip: Pollack Roe Spaghetti, Ume Daikon, gratins, Carbonara

Kimera [Irvine]

Kimera has all the trappings of the type of restaurants I tend to be wary of. First, it belongs to a restaurant group (namely the Dining as Art Collection, which also owns Bastide). Second, it serves fusion food in a trendy lounge and dining room combo. And lastly, it falls into the category of restaurant that I call "overpriced fine dining designed to appease OC conservatism."

To say I was skeptical about coming to Kimera would be a gross understatement. To say that you'd have to drag me kicking and screaming on any other day besides Father's Day would be more like it.

What ended up really selling me on the restaurant was the OC Weekly's mention of "chef Chris Grodach—a true food alchemist from Napa Valley institution the French Laundry." French Laundry and molecular gastronomy? The two biggest buzz words on the culinary front right now? Now I was really curious.


The restaurant certainly makes a statement with its slanted bamboo ceiling and the splashes of abstract art scrawled across bold red walls. The flower arrangements at the center were nothing short of stunning and I'm told that they're brought in on a weekly basis.

Despite the Asian-sounding name and the few dishes reflecting influences from Japanese and Thai cooking, most of the menu has a Mediterranean slant with some Spanish and Italian thrown in for good measure. The menu is purposefully vague and begs you to ask questions of your waiter. We ordered three appetizers and two entrees to share between three people.

Based on our waiter's recommendations we started with the Polenta Beignets ($10.50) and the Seared Scallops ($12.75). I didn't feel as though frying was the best way to bring out the flavor of polenta and the most prominent flavor was the Parmesan cheese, which wasnt even mentioned on the menu. Regardless, the waiters were recommending it left and right and it seemed as though every party had an order on their table. The two jumbo scallops were perfectly cooked and were good enough to be served on their own (the olive oil emulsion and prosciutto didn't add much).

We also tried the Heirloom Squash Blossoms, which came with came with an ibarra and milk chocolate mole sauce. You would have expected the combination of achiote, lime, mole, and goat cheese to be overwhelming, but the flavors worked as good balances against each other and the dish was incredibly light.

For our mains, we ordered the Seared Ahi on ratatouille ($26.75) and the Paprika-dusted hangar steak on a bed of corn with a manchego fondue ($23.40). While both proteins were cooked well and of high quality, they were also both under-seasoned. The kernels of corn that came with hangar steak were like biting into little nuggets infused with the essence of summer.

As a whole, I felt that the flavors could have been crisper and more distinct. While the dishes tasted good overall, the individual flavor components were either incomplete, incompatible, or absent altogether. The aesthetic and presentation, however, was flawless.

I was glad to see that the restaurant had an in-house pastry chef and we opted for the Tropical Cheesecake ($7.50). The texture was good, though the flavors of the coconut macaroon crust and pineapple gelee were lost in the cheesecake.

Service was uneven, though the effort was there. Our waiter neglected to bring us a basket of bread in addition to spilling a glass of water on our table. He seemed to struggle with his words when I asked questions about the menu, though that could have been a lack of eloquence more than anything else. But ultimately, we received our service with a smile and everyone worked together to make sure all our needs were attended. Hey, no harm, no foul.

Chef Grodach's experience at the French Laundry shows in the kitchen's ability to turn out dishes that are perfectly cooked, but the true test of his skill will only be known when the dishes are perfectly seasoned. Kimera just opened not too long ago and I suspect the kitchen and waitstaff have yet to work out the kinks. When they do, I'll be the first revisit.

Kimera

19530 Jamboree Rd
Irvine, CA 92612
(949) 261-1222

Ikko Japanese Restaurant [Costa Mesa]

People talk about hidden gems as if anything in plain sight of an Orange County strip mall could remain hidden for long, but Ikko is truly a tucked away.

When you're driving down Baker, look for the Lotions and Lace store--it's in that Plaza. If you're driving from South Coast Plaza, you're likely to miss it. If you're coming from the other way, you cant miss the new age orange sign announcing that you've arrived at your destination.

The space oozes swank with jazz music filling the eight-tables and sushi bar at Ikko. The lights are turned down low in a beatnik jazz club kinda way and it reminds me of a place where you would frequent on your illicit love affair. There were mostly Japanese patrons on that Friday Night and the lull of their quiet whispers bathed the room. At closing on another night, the crowd was pretty rambunctious. So, f you're looking for a quiet dinner, I'd advise eating earlier, which would also give your more options since they tend to run out of the more popular items.

The food here is upscale Japanese izakaya with Western influences, but priced moderately for the type of restaurant it is. There is sashimi flown in from Japan and the daily specials are written on a menu, though they are crossed off when the kitchen runs off. We tried both the domestic and imported yellowtail and both were excellent. While we've had better in terms of quality and texture, the flavor was good.


What makes Ikko's Japanese fusion different from other restaurants is that it errs on the side of Japanese more than it does on the side of Western. There are Western preparation and ingredients such as carpaccio, asparagus, and stuffed meats, but the delicate, mellow balance of flavors that is a cornerstone to Japanese cusine is what stands out most. You can really see this in the tofu dishes especially.

We are partial to the rock shrimp tempura salad and if you're feeling adventurous, the radish pancake with uni, ikura, and dried shrimp [it's milder than you'd expect]. The pancake reminds me of the turnip cake you get at dim sum, except that it has a sticky texture similar to what you'd find in natto or mochi desserts. We've also had the chilean sea bass, asparagus spring rolls, and chicken stuffed w/brown rice, though we were more ambivalent about those dishes. For dessert, I love the black soy ice cream for a mere $3.50.

Most of the menu descriptions are fairly unassuming and humble, but dont let that fool you. Take a chance on something that sounds boring and you may be surprised.

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Updated July 10, 2007

Though I've been for dinner a few times, today was my first venture into lunch. I have always been intrigued by Ikko's lunch menu, which isn't your standard bento box affair. There was no miso soup or chicken terriyaki in sight. We tried the lunch special, which was a special roll and a chicken meatball and baked mochi soup with daikon radish. The soup was a little on the salty side, but the special roll was a light and sweet combination of tamago, eel, and shrimp.

The same sushi chefs were there for lunch, though sushi specials are featured primarily in the evening. We built our meal primarily on sushi and ventured outside of our comfort zones by blindly ordering. My first encounter with pen shell was on the tasting menu at Cyrus and if that was good, the sushi was mind blowing. The pen shell belongs to the same family as scallops and is expectedly sweet. What is unexpected is the range of flavor, which your mouth explores as the pen shell slowly melts away. Don't miss it.

From left to right: Taraigai (pen shell), Aji (Spanish mackerel), Hamachi (yellowtail)

We were dazzled by the progression and freshness of our sushi, which was dressed with restraint to bring out the natural qualities of the fish. I will vouch for Ikko once more and this time designate it as a C'est Poptastique! pick.

Ikko Japanese Restaurant
735 Baker St Ste C
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 556-7822

242 Cafe Fusion Sushi [Laguna Beach]

When I was in my sushi craze two years ago, I stumbled upon this Laguna Beach gem right off of PCH. It used to be my go-to Orange County sushi joint, but I've since eaten sushi that was more creative, more fresh, and less expensive. Our late-night dinner of two rolls, one hand roll, and a small salad set us back $60 before tip. Talk about sticker shock.

Chef Miki is one of the few female sushi chefs you'll ever come across and her sense of aesthetic is felt in every detail. Whether it is a mother of pearl dish, the zen rocks, or sushi that is too pretty to eat, there is a delicate exquisiteness to everything she touches.

As the name may imply, 242 is not the type of place for traditional nigiri or sashimi. The restaurant certainly offers top quality fish to your choosing, but where the kitchen really shines is in its daily specials, which are listed on a plate. The descriptions are perplexing, though I've never ordered anything bad from this menu. Be cautious, though, since prices are never listed. You can expect the rolls and sashimi off the plate to set you back at least $15 per dish. However, these dishes are larger by sushi standards and oftentimes embody the meaning of the culinary arts in their presentation.

On this particular night, we started with the Saku Saku [$20], which was a seared and marinated albacore sashimi with radish, avocado, potato, and smelt roe. We chose the dish because we thought the potato would be interesting, but it was more like a deep-fried potato string garnish. Regardless, the dish was very well executed and light, though it could've used more heat to give a kick.

They brought out our Prairie Roll ($16) next and we were somewhat disappointed with the presentation. It was basically a California roll inside and topped with peppered salmon and spicy tuna and came in its own spicy vinaigrette. There was pile of shredded lettuce thrown on top, which added a textural contrast to the buttery avocado and crab meat, but took away from the colors of the dish. My SO remarked that maybe it was supposed to look drab--after all, it was named the Prairie. The roll seemed a bit sloppier than usual, but then again, Chef Miki wasnt in on this particular night.

You can see the Sexy Handroll ($6) in the background of the previous photo and it is one of the few items that is consistently listed as a special. After our first two rolls, which both came in spicy soy sauce vinaigrettes, we were ready for a different taste sensation. The Sexy handroll provided just that, with its sweet combination of crab, avocado, scallop, and tuna. The scallop and tuna are piled in on top, so make sure you ration so that you end up with more than just a California roll when you get to the tip of the cone.

Lastly, we finished with a soft-shell crab salad ($10), which I remember as being better the last time we had it.


Overall I've found 242 to serve quality sushi that is both inventive and flavorful, but I've since learned that better can be had for much less. Service was brusque on this particular night and though we didnt feel welcome today, I wouldnt say that that's the norm. The restaurant is tiny with a sushi bar and five skinny tables. They don't take reservations, though I don't often have trouble nabbing a seat.

242 Cafe Fusion Sushi
242 N. Coast Hwy
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
(949) 494-2444